A short trip across a couple of bridges and we soon arrived at Sts. Peter and Paul Fortress, or just Peter and Paul Fortress.
The fortress was founded by Peter the Great in 1703 and was of the first structures to be built in the nascent city. It actually sits on an island called Zayachy or Hare Island and takes up the entirety of the island. Though built as a fortress, it never had to serve in that capacity in war. That said, at the onset of the October Revolution, several shells were fired from the fortress at the Winter Palace just across the river. Prisoners were housed in the fortress for a time. The jail still exists. Many buildings are located inside the walls of the fortress, some of which we would soon visit.
Every day at noon a cannon shot is fired inside the fortress. The shot is fired to the accompaniment of “God Save the Tsar”, the Russian National Anthem. We missed this ceremony by about three hours.
Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral
As we walked, Natasha told us about some of the buildings inside the fortress, and stopped outside the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral. The cathedral is named for Saint Peter and Saint Paul (you probably figured that part out), who are also the patron saints of the fortress.
With its spire, the cathedral is the second-tallest building in St. Petersburg. It is topped by a cross-bearing angel, which functions as a weather vane. The spire can be seen from miles away. Since it is so tall, the spire does double duty as a lightning rod.
The renowned bell tower of the cathedral houses a 51-bell carillon. At noon, the bells play “God Save the Tsar”, providing the accompaniment for that noonday cannon shot. Carillon concerts are occasionally given. There is a seating area right outside the cathedral for anyone who wishes to sit down and enjoy the performance.
Natasha mentioned that members of the Imperial Family of Russia from the Romanov dynasty are buried here in sepulchers. And this is where we lost a member of the group…temporarily. He said that for religious reasons, he could not go into a building where the dead were. He stayed outside and caught up with us when we emerged from the tour of the cathedral.
With the exception of two, all of the emperors from of the House of Romanov are entombed here – all of the emperors and empresses from Peter the Great down through Nicholas II. As such, there is a solemn air inside the cathedral.
When Natasha told us about who was laid to rest there, I imagined they would be buried; as in six feet under, buried. Their remains are actually in carved tombs of fabulous white marble and other types of stone. The tombs rest on the floor of the cathedral, separated from visitors by fencing. You can walk right past them, paying your respects if you so desire.
Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral is an Orthodox church. Inside, there several murals and frescoes on the walls and ceiling depicting biblical themes and stories, but not as many as are found in other cathedrals we’ve seen around the city. In the nave of the cathedral, there is a lot of marble, and a few gilded figurines. The iconostasis in this church, instead of being a wall or screen, forms somewhat of a tower inside the cathedral, rising up and into a cupola. There are many photos of this, but none do it its proper justice; you must see this in person. I was especially impressed by the pulpit. And the iconostasis. In case you are wondering, yes, both the pulpit and iconostasis are gilded.
Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral is smaller than some of the other churches we’ve visited so far, but no less impressive. Sadly, Soviet rule affected this church, too. It was shut down and eventually turned into a museum. Though still officially a museum, religious services are occasionally held here.
Attached to the cathedral is the Grand Ducal Burial Vault. This is a mausoleum where the Grand Dukes and Duchesses of Russia are buried.
Walking inside the fortress grounds
Our temporarily separated group member rejoined us for the walk through the fortress grounds. Natasha pointed out the St. Petersburg Mint (Monetniy Dvor). It is still functioning, producing coins, and official and state medals. It is one of the world’s largest mints, and one of the oldest businesses in St. Petersburg. Our route also took us by the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg. It used to be the Commandant’s House.
As we walked toward the walls of the fortress, Natasha told us about the Petrovskiy Curtain Wall and Gate as we passed under. The gate is the official ceremonial entrance to the fortress. She also explained the significance of the Imperial Crest that sits above the arch.
As you go through the gate, you’ll find yourself on the Commandant’s Pier, which leads down to a tiny marina. Steps from the pier lead to a small but popular beach, if you will. It’s actually more of an embankment along the Neva River. Due to the near-perfect weather, many sun worshippers were out taking advantage of the climate. During the summer, as it is here now, festivals are often held on the beach further down the fortress, including the popular annual international PetroJazz festival (which we apparently missed by three weeks). We were given a few minutes here. I took the time to look out over the Neva River and the buildings along its embankment.
From the end of the pier, turn around and look back, and you will see the Nevsky Curtain Wall and Gate. This is what is on the other side of the Petrovskiy Gate. The Commandants Pier leads directly into the fortress through the gate.
Remember those few and far between bathrooms I told you about yesterday? I saw a trailer with portable restrooms inside the fortress. It looked like one of those movie trailers with the dressing rooms for the actors. They were charging about US $1. Expensive by all accounts (though I been asked to pay similar amounts in Mexico and Jamaica), but to me it was better than the alternative.
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