Machu Picchu: Exploring the Inca Marvel and Modern Wonder of the World

Seeing a stunning photo of Machu Picchu begs you to ponder many things: The wonders of Perú; the mysteries of the Andes; the ingenuity of the Inca; the romance of the lost city of the Incas, as it is sometimes referred to; the prospect of seeing both an Inca marvel and modern wonder of the world in person…

I remember visiting the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County several years ago and seeing “Chocolate: The Exhibition”. While at the museum, I saw the banners for “Machu Picchu: Unveiling the Mystery of the Incas”, which was the next exhibit coming to the museum. It was billed as “the largest exhibition of Inca treasures ever assembled in the United States.”

At the time, I thought Machu Picchu was such a mystical, almost mythical place, that I couldn’t even imagine I would ever go there. Funny how things change.

Adding to the aura of mystery surrounding Machu Picchu: You cannot see the citadel from far away, unlike the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, or any number of other famous landmarks. As we traveled on the Vistadome train toward Machu Picchu Pueblo, I kept glancing out through the train’s panoramic observation windows hoping to catch a glimpse of Machu Picchu from a distance. It didn’t happen.

You may have heard of the famous Inca Trail (Camino Inca or Camino Inka). Hikers taking the Inca Trail start out in Ollantaytambo and end their trek at Machu Picchu. Depending on which option you choose, you can complete the trail in three, four, or five days. Hard-core hikers treat it like a marathon and can complete it in two days or less. The Inca Trail is part of a network of trails built by the Inca that cover between 23,000 and 45,000 km (14,000 and 28,000 miles) — different sources give different distances. But even if you hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, you don’t really see the complex until you approach the Sun Gate.

Maybe this is why the Spanish never found the citadel. It is most definitely not someplace you’d just stumble across on your own, explorer or not. Even Hiram Bingham needed help to (re)discover Machu Picchu. We’ll learn more about him a bit later in the post.

Why was Machu Picchu built then abandoned?

Machu Picchu is about 80 km (50 miles) northwest of Cusco. It lies at an elevation of 2,430 meters (7,970 ft). Believe it or not, even though the citadel is atop a mountain, it is at a lower elevation than Cusco.

The fact that the Inca did not have a written language obscures most of our knowledge about the citadel, further adding to its mystery. The complex is thought to have been constructed somewhere between 1420 and the 1450s. It was inhabited until about 1530 or 1540.

So what is Machu Picchu really? It may have been built as a royal estate by the emperor Pachacutec for him and his family. It may have been a vantage point from which to look out over his domain. Or it could have been a city for his people, an administrative center, or even a sanctuary that included temples for worship.

With all that the citadel had going for it — religious centers, architecture, agriculture, relative isolation and safety, and much more — it begs the question: “Why was Machu Picchu abandoned after such a relatively short period of time?”

Several theories exist. One states that a few residents may have had contact with a Spanish explorer or two down in the lower elevations. Though the Spanish conquistadors never made it to the citadel, residents of Machu Picchu heard of the ongoing Spanish conquests in other areas of Perú and decided to leave town.

Another theory holds that though the Spanish conquistadors themselves never found Machu Picchu, the diseases like smallpox and influenza they brought with them did reach the citadel. Since there were no vaccines back then, and the Inca had no immunity to those ailments, illness took a huge toll on the population.

Angel, our guide, mentioned another set of circumstances that may have prompted inhabitants to leave the citadel: internal beefs within the royal family and civil war. I had not heard this before but several sources I found later also mention these disputes as possible causes.

Drought is yet another possible factor. Also likely is the fact the remoteness of the place and the difficulty of accessing it, being that it was built on such a steep mountain, made it challenging, to say the least, to support the large number of inhabitants needed to sustain a complex of its size.

Hiram Bingham and the Yale Peruvian Expedition

Much of what we know today about the citadel is the result of the work of one Hiram Bingham III.  Bingham was a professor/lecturer-turned-explorer at Yale University, and later became a United States senator. He is widely acknowledged as the person who discovered Machu Picchu — or more accurately, re-discovered it.

Already a well-known explorer with plenty of cred from his adventures in South America (the popular Indiana Jones character was based loosely on his exploits), after a while, Bingham became excited about the prospect of seeking out unexplored early Inca cities. To that end, he organized the 1911 Yale Peruvian Expedition and set out on his quest to find the lost city of the Incas.

Soon enough, Bingham and his team neared the area where Machu Picchu lay. An innkeeper and farmer by the name of Melchor Arteaga guided Bingham up to the site when Bingham asked if there were any ruins nearby. Pablito, the 11-year-old son of Alvaraez, one of the Quechua people they met on the mountain, led Bingham to the main section of the citadel.

By the time Bingham and his team arrived at the ruins, the jungle had long since reclaimed the site; it sat abandoned and undisturbed under nearly 400 years’ worth of trees and vines. Nearly all of the structures were completely overgrown by vegetation.

Upon spotting the citadel, Bingham recalled, “It fairly took my breath away. What could this place be?”

Thus, Bingham found the lost city of the Incas. Or did he? Turns out Machu Picchu is not the lost city of the Incas after all. That distinction was later determined to belong to the city of Vilcabamba, a place Bingham and company had unknowingly passed through on their way to Machu Picchu.

Bingham returned to Perú and Machu Picchu three more times between his original visit and 1915, eventually writing a book titled Lost City of the Incas about his expeditions there.

We now know that Bingham was not the first to rediscover Machu Picchu. But he does get credit for making it more well known. His writings and the use of early Kodak equipment basically put the site on the map.

Over time, the Inca citadel was revealed to more and more of the world. The marvel that is Machu Picchu was later named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. In addition, in 1983, the citadel was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed as the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu.

The train to Machu Picchu

We began our journey to the mountain from Ollantaytambo, which is in the Sacred Valley. Our bus driver was extremely good; he had to be to be able to maneuver a large tour bus through the narrow streets and tight corners of Ollantaytambo.

The route to Ollantaytambo Railway Station (Estación Ferroviaria Ollantaytambo) went across a low bridge, which I believe spans Rio Patacancha. The bridge we had to navigate had a steep, declining approach; so steep that the front end of the bus, which had somewhat of an overhang, scraped the road. Some tour group members suggested we get out to lighten the bus. Angel said the driver could handle it. He backed up, inflated the air suspension system to raise the bus’ chassis, and tried again. Still scraping. The driver reversed once more, inflated the system a bit more, and tried again. This time we cleared the approach without scraping and continued on our short trip to the train depot.

Our journey to Machu Picchu was aboard PeruRail’s Vistadome train, with near-panoramic views on all of the cars. The side and top windows allow passengers to enjoy a practically unobstructed scenic view.

The route follows the Urubamba River to Aguas Calientes. The landscape was beautiful, stunning, changing from riverside to jungle to snow-capped mountains. When we rounded curves, you could see the railroad track. Often it appeared to be laid down on a ledge cut into the side of the mountain. At other times it looked like we were running beside walls made of stone. There was some entertainment onboard with people dressed in colorful costumes roaming the cars, and a fashion show.

The ride was little over an hour and half, but it seemed much shorter than that. I found it very enjoyable, and quite comfortable.

For those who can afford to travel in lavish extravagance and comfort, there is a luxury train named after Hiram Bingham that runs between Cusco and Machu Picchu.

We disembarked at Machu Picchu Pueblo, also known as Aguas Calientes. Machu Picchu Pueblo is where the final stage of your journey to Machu Picchu begins. From Machu Picchu Pueblo, you can either hike the zigzag trail up to the mountain or take the bus. Our group took the bus. It is about 8 km (5 miles) to the entrance of the sanctuary.

At last, the mountain

If you are coming up from Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu Pueblo, like we did, you take the winding Hiram Bingham Highway (Carretera Hiram Bingham) that snakes up to the entrance. Anticipation of catching the first views of the site rose but then quickly fell; we couldn’t see the citadel from the road. After the shuttle bus deposited us at the entrance, I thought we’d be able to see it from there. Nope. When we passed through the park’s gates, I just knew it’d be right in front of us. Not yet. We walked past the gate and along the trail. And then… then as we rounded a curve on the trail, there it sat in all its majesty: Magnificent Machu Picchu. It was almost like a vivid dream, only this one was real and just a few meters ahead of us.

What is the weather like at Machu Picchu? I’ve seen hundreds of photos of conditions on the mountain. From what I’ve seen, photos show conditions that range from nice and sunny, to cloudy, to shrouded in low clouds/mist/fog like the Golden Gate Bridge in California, to rainy. (In a way, when the citadel is veiled in mist, it kind of adds to the mystic aura of the place.) But conditions change fast. Our tour was sunny on arrival, then it clouded over. The next day was sunny the entire time we were on the mountain. It’s a good idea to check the weather for the day(s) you plan to visit the citadel. Fortunately, Angel had already done that for us.

Learning new things about the Old Mountain

Now that we’ve arrived at the mountain, our real education began.

There is evidence now that we may have been calling the site by the wrong name this whole time. The entire mountain and the citadel were known collectively as Huayna Picchu, also known by its Quechua name Wayna Picchu, or just Picchu. To clear it up, Machu Picchu refers to the citadel and the mountain it rests on. The imposing mountain just beyond Machu Picchu is Huayna Picchu. The mix-up was probably the result of misunderstanding local place names.

We learned Machu Picchu means “Old Peak” or “Old Mountain” in the native Quechua language. Huayna Picchu means “Young Peak”. You can climb Huayna Picchu, but there is an extra cost to do so. Sources say to allow about two hours to climb it.

And we also learned we’ve been pronouncing even the name Machu Picchu wrong. Angel pointed out there are two C’s in the name “Picchu”; we’ve been dropping the first one. It’s actually pronounced MA-chu PEEK-chu. In some publications you’ll see it spelled “Machu Pikchu”.

Machu Picchu – Inside the citadel

Flashback to 5^th grade when I first read about Machu Picchu. The name Machu Picchu is not what stuck with me (I actually forgot that that was its name); it was the fact that humans cut and laid stones that fit together so precisely and without using mortar that “not even a piece of cigarette paper will fit between the blocks.”

Somewhere around my college years is when I saw more photos of Machu Picchu, and this time the name stuck. It still seemed to me such a mystical place that I wondered if it really existed. Fast forward a couple of years (ok, a lot more than a couple of years) and I finally get to see where these finely cut stone blocks that you can’t fit cigarette paper between live. And now I’m actually walking around not just a couple of stone blocks, not just a wall or two, not just a building, but an entire city built using these precisely carved stone blocks.

The structures in the citadel were built using a technique called “ashlar”. Ashlar is a process where large stones are cut and fitted together without using mortar. Many of the stones are irregular in form, i.e. not the rectangular shape you’re used to seeing with conventional stone masonry. On top of that, the vast majority of the larger stones are beveled. Which makes it all the more amazing when you consider how the Incan architects and engineers were still able to fit such asymmetrical stones together. We would see a more striking example of ashlar masonry later in Cusco when we visited Sacsayhuaman.

Another thing we learned about ashlar masonry and asymmetrical stones: The combination is highly effective in withstanding earthquakes, which Perú is known for. Why? Irregularly shaped stones don’t easily slide against each other during seismic activity.

Inside the complex we were placed in the very capable hands of Luz, who would be our guide for the tour of Machu Picchu. She is extremely knowledgeable about Machu Picchu. There are around 200 structures in the complex. She promptly unfolded a diagram, which she carried with her, and pointed out several of them. That diagram and other visual aids she showed us were valuable in giving us a better, fuller understanding of this mysterious place.

Various sources quote different estimates of the number of people that lived in the citadel, but the most common number I’ve found is 750. The complex was home to the royals and their staff, religious personnel, and seasonal and permanent workers. Some of the structures Luz took us to include:

Royal Residence

Emperor Pachacutec and his family lived in what is known as the Royal Residence, or Royal Palace. These structures were larger than the common residences, more expertly constructed, and set in a higher section of the complex. The royal residence was next to the Temple of the Sun.

Temple of the Sun (Torreón)

The Temple of the Sun (Torreón) was one of the principal buildings in the citadel. It’s said that only nobility and priests were allowed to go in. We’re looking at the tower/turret part of the temple in this photo. Behind the Torreón, the rest of the structure contains what was believed to be an altar. Windows in the walls are precisely set so that the sun shines through them during the winter and summer solstices. (Note: This is one of two structures called Temple of the Sun. The other one is in Ollantaytambo.)

Temple of the Three Windows (El Templo de las Tres Ventanas)

In the Hanan (uptown or high) region of the complex is the Temple of the Three Windows (El Templo de las Tres Ventanas). Each window has significance to the Inca: From left to right, Uku Pacha represents the realm of the dead, Kay Pacha represents the realm of the living, and Hanan Pacha represents the heavenly realm.

Main or Principal Temple

The Main or Principal Temple was most likely one of the primary temples in the complex. As you can see from the photo, part of the ground beneath the temple has sunk, damaging part of its walls. Understandably, the area is now roped off to visitors.

The Terraces

Some of the most prominent structures in the complex are the agricultural stone terraces (andenes). Each terrace contained a layer of hummus soil put down on top of sand, on top of gravel, and finally stone. All this was on top of the bedrock. The layers are held in place by stone walls that form the individual steps of the terrace. It makes for an amazing system for farming.

The terraces also employed highly advanced irrigation methods. A drainage system was planned and implemented through the soil and slots in the rock walls. The Inca had knowledge of erosion control even back then. Luz showed us some of the drainage outlets systematically spaced throughout the terraces. At the end of some of the terraces are food storage structures called colcas.

The Guard House

I don’t think Luz pointed out this structure to us, but it is referred to as the Guard House, House of the Guardian, or Caretaker’s Hut. It doesn’t look like much, but from here you have a great overview of the complex, and you can see the gateway that marks the end of the Inca Trail as it enters Machu Picchu. Just a few meters from the Guard House is one of the best spots from which to photograph the complex. From there you get a real sense of the awe the place elicits. From there you can appreciate its beauty and feel its various moods as the weather changes.

Besides tourists, there were several llamas and alpacas roaming around. They serve a purpose: they help keep the grass cut. We noticed that the grass and other plants were well kept, even in the areas where the llamas and alpacas didn’t go. If you think this was done using machines like lawn mowers and weed whackers, you’d be wrong. While we were hiking up to the Sun Gate the next day, we saw several members of the maintenance crew keeping the paths nicely trimmed and free of overhanging branches using only machetes.

As we continued exploring the ruins, I noticed people were starting to leave. I began to wonder why we were only given about 3 hours to see this magnificent marvel. It didn’t take long for the answers to come. First, the sun was starting to set, there were no obscuring clouds (they had cleared out a bit earlier), and the lighting was fantastic and getting better. Second, as most of the other visitors were leaving, we had more room to check out this historic place in a less crowded setting. That meant more room to move about, and fewer people in our photographs. And lastly, our admission ticket allowed us to come back the next morning, an option that Angel had built into the itinerary. I was very happy that he had arranged it that way.

(Side note: While we were busy exploring this centuries-old site, I was jolted back to modern times when my cell phone rang. I had it turned on to use the phone’s camera but never expected I’d have reception way up there, let alone get a call. So I’d recommend putting your phone in Airplane Mode if you plan to use your phone’s camera. Put it Airplane Mode anyway; you’ll avoid unexpected roaming charges, and your fellow travelers will appreciate your consideration.)

The hike to the Sun Gate

Next morning we got up early and took the shuttle back up the winding road to the mountain. There were very few people up there at that hour. Our itinerary allowed a few hours to explore the complex again. The sun was up and had already started to warm the citadel — and us, too. This time, following Angel’s instructions, we took the path leading to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku). At nearly 2 km (1.2 miles), it was quite a nice hike. The unevenly spaced stone steps made walking challenging, though, because you couldn’t get a rhythm going.

I noticed the visitors on the mountain this morning were older. (I guess the younger crowd didn’t/couldn’t wake up that early). On the way up, we passed one 70-year-old man, already on his way back down. He was navigating the trail with ease, bounding along the trail like a 25-year-old. He made the rest of us envious of his ability, agility, health, and strength. The twenty-somethings we saw on our way back down looked tired; and they were only halfway up.

What did we see when we reached the top? A stone structure that appeared to be walls with windows. There were three pillars in what I took to be the front of the gate and terraces on one side. It was hard to tell what the original structure looked like.

The Inca held a high reverence for the sun and astronomy in general. During the summer and winter solstices, the sun shines directly through the Sun Gate and illuminates the citadel below. How did the Inca come up with that?

It is said that the Sun Gate also functioned as a checkpoint of sorts. It is the final section of the Inca Trail that leads into the citadel. Post a guard or two there and you could pretty much control who was able to access the citadel. Aside from those who lived there, only the elite members of the Incan population were allowed to enter Machu Picchu. And for those permitted to enter, this is the first place where you can get a view the entire complex.

From the Sun Gate you have a fantastic view of: the citadel; the Upper Urubamba River below, which seems to wrap around the mountain and give it a hug before it continues its course out to join the Tambo River; and the Hiram Bingham Highway, with all of its switchbacks and hairpin turns, as it makes its way up from the river to the entrance of the complex. From up there, Machu Picchu almost looks like a deeply embossed saddle on a vegetation-covered mountain horse.

Take a moment to ponder what you see. The view from the Sun Gate almost demands contemplation.

Seeing Machu Picchu in person was a dream come true. Actually setting foot on the mysterious and majestic citadel seemed unreal; still feels like that even today. In some way, exploring the citadel felt like an expedition; and a very successful one at that.

Yet, at the same time, my desire to learn some of the secrets of the Andes (and of Machu Picchu) had only resulted in questions: Why build such an important city here on the side of a very steep mountain? Was it the remoteness? Is there a powerful spiritual force that exists only in this location? Was it because there was a quarry pretty much on site? And how did the Incan people build all this without using modern equipment like power tools, hard metals, heavy machinery, or engine-driven vehicles?

Anthony Bourdain summed it up best when he said, “It’s an irritating reality that many places and events defy description. Angkor Wat and Machu Picchu, for instance, seem to demand silence…For a while after, you fumble for words, trying to vainly assemble a private narrative, an explanation, a comfortable way to frame where you’ve been and what’s happened. In the end, you’re just happy you were there — with your eyes open — and lived to see it.”

Things to know before visiting Machu Picchu

• A lot has changed in a short amount of time, and continues to change as a result of the growing popularity of the site. Because some parts of the citadel have shifted/sunk (you can see some of the damaged areas when you walk through) due to overtourism, the Peruvian Ministry of Culture has restricted the number of visitors to the site. If you are planning to visit Machu Picchu, my advice is to make reservations far in advance, at least 2–3 months. Also note that there are different types of tickets for varying ‘circuits’ around the complex. Don’t be that person that decides to visit Machu Picchu on the spur of the moment, only to arrive and be denied entry. In fact, you can no longer purchase tickets at the entrance gate. You must purchase them through a tour operator or through one of the approved online outlets.
• From Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, you can hike up the steep, winding road to Machu Picchu, or take the shuttle bus up (additional cost). Depending on your level of fitness, the hike can take anywhere from 90 minutes to 2 hours or more. The shuttle bus takes less than half an hour.
• Be prepared for changes in weather. It can go from fog to sun to rain to clouds and back to sun all while you’re on the mountain. Or some combination. Dress in layers and, if possible, check the weather for the day(s) you plan to visit.
• Think of exploring Machu Picchu as a hike. That means you should wear comfortable walking or hiking shoes. Sneakers (good) or hiking boots (better) are recommended. Flip-flops, heels, or sandals are no-nos.
• There is no bathroom on the mountain. If you need to use the restroom, use the one at the entrance gate.

Photo credits:

Hiram Bingham III – Public Domain via Wikipedia

Costumed entertainer; Main/Principal Temple; trail to Sun Gate – my wife

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