A Day in the Life: Exploring Machu Picchu Pueblo

Aguas Calientes, or Machu Picchu Pueblo as it is now known, is more than just a place you pass through on your journey to Machu Picchu. Even though it is tiny, you could easily spend half a day or more exploring and getting to know the town. Let’s check it out!

The layout of Machu Picchu Pueblo is very interesting. The town is bounded on one side by the railroad. And it is divided by the Aguas Calientes River (Río Aguas Calientes). There are a couple of bridges that span the river so both sides stay connected to each other. The larger Urubamba River borders the western part of the town before it flows on its way toward Machu Picchu and the headwaters of the Amazon.

The train runs right along the edge of the town. Speaking of the train, it is one of only two ways in to Machu Picchu Pueblo; the way other is to hike in. The town now pretty much serves tourists and residents who are headed to Machu Picchu from Cusco or Ollantaytambo.

The train and Machu Picchu Pueblo

We arrived in Machu Picchu Pueblo on the train from Ollantaytambo. After we disembarked, we walked through the craft market and out to a walkway. That put us right in the center of Machu Picchu Pueblo.

If you want to get a good initial feel for Machu Picchu Pueblo, walk down the path towards where the railroad track crosses the river. Take your time and look in a 360-degree circle. Look up the river. Look down the river. Look along both directions of the railroad track. Each direction seems different yet all are connected, all a part of the town.

I stopped at this crossing and spent a few minutes absorbing the scene. I like how Machu Picchu Pueblo kind of embraces the Aguas Calientes River as it flows past the town. Looking up river you can see the different types of bridges that get you from one side to the other. Also in your field of view are many of the town’s accommodations and the entrance to the craft market. Cross over and look down river and you can see where the Aguas Calientes River joins the Urubamba River, and the road that leads to Hiram Bingham Highway.

As I looked up and down the railroad track while the Hiram Bingham train was stopped in town, on one side I could see various restaurants and gift shops on the street lining the tracks. Across the river on the other side were quite a few Peruvian people dressed in bright colors. I have no idea where they were headed to or coming from, but it felt welcoming to me. In a way, it was like introducing me to Machu Picchu Pueblo.

That railroad has a lot more importance to the town than just bringing tourists in. The town was originally built as a camp to house workers and equipment during the building of the railroad. The camp was named Maquinachayoq. After the railroad was completed, the town became known as Aguas Calientes, after the hot springs in the area and the river of the same name. Later, Aguas Calientes came to be called Machu Picchu Pueblo, or Machu Picchu Town, in recognition of it being the rail stop for people visiting Machu Picchu. For all intents and purposes, the train is Machu Picchu Pueblo’s lifeline.

The only motor vehicles in Machu Picchu Pueblo are the shuttle busses that run between the town and the entrance to Machu Picchu. No worries, though. The town is very small. You can easily get everywhere you want to go on foot.

Several natural hot springs can be found in the area. They feed thermal baths (baños termales) that you can bathe in. I hear they are very therapeutic. Some say a soak in the baths is the perfect way to soothe sore muscles after hiking the Inca Trail or a strenuous walk around Machu Picchu. The baths are in one easy-to-reach location; from where the railroad tracks cross over the Aguas Calientes River, just follow the signs. It’s a short walk to blissful relaxation. There is a small fee to use the baths.

If you are planning to spend the night, you’ll find hotels and other accommodations spread throughout the town, all just a short walk from the train station.

Machu Picchu Pueblo at night

We stayed overnight at El MaPi Hotel Machu Picchu, just across the Aguas Calientes River, right at the base of the mountains. It is a small but cozy hotel with room to move around. In contrast to the ancient ruins at Machu Picchu, El MaPi has all the modern conveniences like Wi-Fi and plenty of electrical outlets. We even had a balcony, tiny though it was. In a previous post I said that I always take notice of the hotel keys we are given. Our key for this hotel was connected to a plastic strap that was attached to a small plastic carry bag.

Dinner was at El MaPi restaurant. There I had the opportunity to continue my quest to sample beers from every country I visit. In keeping with that tradition, I ordered a Huaracina Pale Ale from Sierra Andina Cervecería (website is in Spanish). The menu options at the restaurant seemed to satisfy everyone in our group, including my wife and I. The tree-covered mountains seem to snuggle right up to El MaPi, which the restaurant’s windows have a fantastic view of. It kind of takes your dining experience to another level.

Night had fallen but it was still pretty early. I decided to go for a walk to see more of Machu Picchu Pueblo.

Restaurant barkers were out in front trying to entice people to come into their restaurants. There’s a saying that if there’s someone out front trying to get you to come in, it’s probably not a good restaurant. Why? If it were a good restaurant, the word would be out and people would be lined up to eat there.

I’m not sure I agree with that saying, and this is just based on what I saw over the hour or so I strolled around. I didn’t see any lines outside any of the restaurants, even the ones in the busier plaza. To me it looked like the “barkers” were trying to get the attention of a limited number of patrons out on a winter’s night. I had had dinner at the hotel and was just out burning off calories exploring the area, otherwise I would have been one of the patrons enticed in to dine.

One thing that stood out to me was the number of restaurants that feature pizza. We had lunch at one of the restaurants on our second day in town, but no pizza, opting instead for more traditional Peruvian fare. I understand how Chinese food came to be popular in Perú, and I love how Peruvians put their own delicious spin on traditional Chinese dishes, but how did pizza become the star on so many Peruvian restaurant menus?

Tourists weren’t the only people out. I saw several locals, mostly just hanging out on benches in the plaza. It seemed like the plaza was the place to be. As I said, it wasn’t crowded but the plaza was alive with activity. That might explain why the restaurants on the outskirts of the plaza had to encourage people to try out their spots. In addition to the restaurants in the plaza, I passed by a few bars, a laundromat, and a beautiful Angel’s Trumpet tree.

There is a statue of Pachacutec in the plaza. I told you a little about him in my Machu Picchu post. With his arms spread, he seems to be welcoming you to Machu Picchu Pueblo, while at the same time reminding you that he is still the emperor.

My aimless walk took me past the Statue of Inka, a statue that symbolizes the Incan belief in the three realms: heaven, earth, and the underworld. It shows a magnificent Inca man in full Inca regalia, a snake, a puma behind him, and a condor with wings spread perched on his shoulder. This is similar in many ways to the beliefs of the Mayan culture — you can find carvings of snakes, jaguars, and eagles at the city and temple of Chichen Itza.

When we left the next day, we had to go back through the craft market to get to the train station. The large venue features endless stalls chock full of all kinds of items both typical and unique. We bought a few gifts from a few vendors for family back home. It is well worth your time stop at the craft market before you leave Machu Picchu Pueblo. It seems like they have everything you could possibly image a craft market in Perú would have. Had we not had a train to catch, no doubt we would have spent a lot more time (and money) checking out the market. Had we not had a train to catch, no doubt we would have spent a lot more time exploring the entire town of Machu Picchu Pueblo.

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